Pasteis & Princesas

Wandering: A few days ago my little brother woke up sick and feverish, so rather than heading to the praia (beach) as planned, we went to the Children’s hospital Estefania—my first trip to an emergency room on a bus. I couldn’t go in with my brother to see the doctor, but the hospital had a nice garden with a fish pond. And, once he was seen, we wound our way to the British Council where I finally found English novels, which my parents wouldn’t let me read while we hung out in the Council’s lovely garden. But while we chatted we saw parrots and European jays (peachy, with a mustache) in the palm trees. Third garden of the day, Principe Real (translation: royal prince): long hilly climb to a great playground, winding paths, a tree whose branches made the roof of a café, and a torrada (who knew buttery toast could be so good?!).

The day before that, we went to Belém for a pastel de Belém, the very best pastel de nata. We walked first by the Tejo river and monument to the discoverers.




I saw a girl among the statues of the explorers. I’m wondering who she is.

Also wondering: Our trip to the beach keeps getting put off. Will we EVER get to go?

Something interesting to end up with: We had to wait forever for a pastel de Belém, even though there were so many rooms of tables in the old Unica (one and only) Fábrica dos Pasteis de Belém you could get lost. There was no wait, however, at the Starbucks next door.

Charge to the Castle (or don't get stuck in the closing doors)

Wandering:
Today, I rode an old yellow electric tram up to the St. George Castle (Castelo de São Jorge). I walked and climbed a lot of slippery stones and saw the city from very high up. The castle towers had some great views down through the old city to the river.

Wondering:
I learned a little more about my favorite subway station (the one with the little crusaders) by looking at some tiles while we climbed the hill to the castle. My favorite figure, whom I thought was cute because he was/is peeking between two stones, is actually the crusaders’ leader, who is jamming himself in the closing door of the Moorish castle we visited so that the crusaders can get by and defeat the Moors. He therefore dies a heroic death: mushed in a door.

Something interesting to end up with:
I walked forever through winding streets down from the castle through Alfama (old Moorish city) and up to the Bairro Alto (where my dad looked in every bookstore for a map he didn’t buy) and ended up at Bomjardim, O Rei dos Frangos (King of Chickens) in the Rossio, where I ate a very yummy roasted chicken.

Finally in Portugal

I am finally in Portugal. My apartment is near a little grocery store and a great playground for my little brother and sister. I have tried several Portuguese pastries and snacks, especially the pastel de nata which is a pastry that is shaped sort of like a basket and filled with cream.

Wandering: Lots of little shops and cafes, one bigger store, a shopping mall, lots and lots of walking on cobblestone streets (ruas).

Wondering: Will I EVER make any friends here?! It is just the first week, though.

Something interesting to end up with: All the subway stations have tiles (azulejos) decorated by different artists in them: crusaders who looked like chess pieces, bullfighters who seemed to be designed by Picasso, lords and ladies sometimes whole but then also missing tiles or all switched around...

I left home six weeks ago. I've been to North Carolina, Virginia, Washington, DC, and Pennsylvania this summer, but my wandering has barely started. I am about to go to Portugal for a year. Highlights of my trip so far: white water rafting, swimming, shopping, and outings with my grandparents. Dimmer lights: sore feet, sore legs, sore arms, lots of hiking uphill. Pitch black: sore throat, spiders. I’m staying with my grandparents in Lancaster for this last week before I leave for Lisbon.

We fly out Sunday night from Philadelphia, land in London in the morning, then fly to Lisbon late afternoon. I’m really excited about this trip. It will be cool to live in a new country for a year.